Yes I know Andy and I have waxed lyrical about a million meals on this blog - and they truly have been stunning if we said so. But there are times when there is a new level needed, and this is one of them. Enter VOLCANO, EXCELLENT, MIND BLOWING, ANTARCTICA, BABY SEAL, AMAZING FOOD LEVEL.

The seafood buffet we failed to find the night before WAS FOUND. It was actually on the top level of the food market and was found by going up nondescript elevators which delivered you into the belly of a beast - the biggest and swankiest buffet place I’d ever been.

In a bid to make sure we had a part of the action, we arrived at 5.30pm. We weren’t even the first there, even though the place only opened at 6pm - that’s how good we are talking here. 

We were led to our table and told to begin whenever we wanted. The place was the size of about 4 tennis courts and the whole length filled with stunning food.

We started with the huge variety of sashimi so fresh it was alive about 3 minutes before. Then the tables laden with sushi, all kinds of varieties. I stupidly grabbed skate wing and a live sea creature than looked like a male appendage and wriggled its way off my plate! Of course I was certainly not put off. Just swipe away what you don’t want and continue!

More to come…

The Busan Film Festival is a highly regarded fest around the world - and with the awesome standard of Korean film you can see why. 

We blagged our way into the BIFF proceedings and took tacky pics on the red carpet. But the beach setting was more than perfect don’t you think?

For those who think Korea is a Hyundai/Samsung industrial haven, take a sweet look at some of the many beaches in and around Busan. Korea is actually really green and lush. Yes there are lots of people and buildings - but it’s a truly beautiful place. 

Seafood BBQ is where it’s at in Busan. Andy snooped out a famous one by the main fish markets (Jagalchi) but in our hunger-driven panic we couldn’t seem to find it anywhere despite Andrew’s careful drawn, detailed map.

We sadly gave up and wandered into a small BBQ spot doing rave business with families. JACKPOT! There was no menu (the secret ingredient to a good restaurant for those in the know and with adventurous tastes) so we just nodded at whatever the lady said to us. We were instantly served with fresh onion, green salads smothered in a peppery sauce and, garlic cubed into a sugar/salt and soybean sauce and large leaves in which to wrap our BBQ delights in. We were also kitted out in sexy floral aprons…

The owner, a joking but no-nonsense local, quickly scissored our meat (at this point we still didn’t know what it was) onto a BBQ and grilled it herself. I actually want to cry in anguish that this meal isn’t in front of me right now. The meat, which we assume was pork, was marinated in pungent garlic and charred perfectly that it took on a smokey, sweet taste. After the first round of meat went down quickly, she broke out another piece to our delight!

Busan. 

Andrew tracked down one of Seoul’s must-have treats. 

Goong Restaurant (30 - 11 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul) specialises in North Korean style dumplings (Mandu). The owner of this homely joint is a 70-something gem of a lady who has been making mandu all her life. 

We ordered two house specials, Mandu Guk Su (dumpling soup). The dumpling skins are paper thin and the filling was meaty spiked with scallions. Dipped in a mild soy sauce they were so, well, beautiful!

The soup was mildly fragrant to balance against the mandu and scattered with thinly sliced rice cakes which are so plain but moreish. And with a satisfyingly squeaky and thick bite. 

No matter how hard we tried, the local eatery (frequented mostly by well-dressed retirees) could not be beaten. At any time of the day, if one of us had a craving - this was the place to fill it.  

The proprietor got to know us and we’d always exchange awkward English and Korean words - but he was always so attentive and made sure we were taken care of. And even mixing my Bi Bim one day when I wasn’t doing it right!

This is a delicate beef bone soup heavy with lean meat. And a beef-mince Bi Bim Bap, filled with fresh rocket and ribbons of seaweed. 

Park life Seoul Style. All the parks we visited were pristine, insanely well maintained,  huge and beautiful. 

The Han River snaking through Seoul was known to us initially as the back-drop to Korean thriller, The Host. But no way near as creepy in real life, we spent a fun day on tandem bikes zipping around the manicured bike paths with lots of children and lovers. 

A must-do in Seoul.